Things to do in Funchal

Funchal is Madeira's capital and the base for almost every visit, built up a steep amphitheatre of hills around the harbour, which means the centre is easy to walk but hard to drive and harder to park.

Start in the Zona Velha, the old town, where the Rua de Santa Maria has been lined with painted doors since a 2010 street-art project, then head to the Mercado dos Lavradores, a 1940 Art Deco market where the upstairs fish hall is worth the smell for a look at the espada preta, the black scabbardfish hauled from deep water offshore.

From the old town, the cable car climbs to Monte in around 15 minutes, gaining 560 metres, and is the easiest way up into the hills above the city, with a one-way ticket running roughly 15 to 18 euros depending on season.