Things to do in Paul do Mar

Paul do Mar sits at the end of the west coast road, a working fishing village that has become one of Europe's reference points for big-wave surfing, with a reef break that can hold swell well overhead on its day.

There is no marina and no imported sand here: the shoreline is black volcanic rock and a narrow cobble beach, and the Atlantic swell that draws surfers from October to March is exactly what keeps casual swimmers out of the water. The drive from Funchal takes around 50 minutes to an hour via the VR1 and the Paul do Mar road, dropping steeply into the village past Prazeres.

Expect a handful of surf-focused guesthouses, a few tasca-style restaurants serving limpets and fresh fish, and a noticeably rougher, quieter feel than Calheta a short drive back along the coast.